Millennium FX Mods - 
Making the Cyberman Helmet wearable

I've put this section together to try and explain just how you can make the new MFX Cyberman helmets the same as the original screen-used ones - i.e. wearable. Note that it is totally your call to do this, so I take no responsibility if you screw it up, or end up falling down the stairs with it bolted to your head!

Right, with that out the way, here's a recap......

The Replica (left) and Original (right) helmets are almost EXACTLY the same, except the replica has been lightly glued together so it sits nicely as a collectable on its neato stand. Because its designed to be worn, the ten original helmets had a simple latch mechanism inside that allowed the performers to remove the back section to slip in on and off. !

Okay, so lets have a good look at the inside on an original so we can identify what needs to be done....

1) The little yellow dots (3 on each side and two at the top). Note that these are only on the replicas and are the glue points used to lightly secure the front to back.
2) Pivot point. Does nothing really apart from allows an "L" shaped angle (the "L Tab") to slip into it such that you only need 2 clips byt the ears and not one on the top!
3) Connection Lugs - simply pieces of aluminium with squares cut into them which the clips in the back section engage into

Here's a close-up of those clips used on the Cyberman (used on the helmet and the rest of the armour in fact). Note that you only need the clip part on the left hand side, as we're going to fabricate our own lug out of Aluminium. The latches used on the originals are described by the makers as "Small Tucktite NP, Page 26 Item 11", and are available from James & Alden in London.

What you need to do:
a) Put your replica helmet on your lap upside down and gently push a hacksaw blade between the front and back sections of the helmet. The 3 glue spots on either side are shown below so its just a case of easing away at the two sides so the acrylic adhesive bond is broken. It will not take much effort.

b) When both sides are free you should be able to gently ease the two hemispheres apart and the top glue bonds will pop open.

c) Pour yourself a nice Scotch and remind yourself you are a brave, brave man

d) You need three short lengths of 3cm aluminium strip (it doesn't have to be Aluminium). One for the "L-Tab" and two for the side Lugs.

e) Bend the L-Tab piece using pliers and glue it to the top of the rear section using 2-part epoxy, such that the back section will interlock into the top of the face section. If there still isn't enough purchase to hold the "L" against the front of the face then build up this area using standard car body filler - you'll only need a small amount.

f) Cut out a channel in the two Aluminium lugs you made, such that the clips you bought will be able to engage into them (and clip out!). Glue these to the inside casing of the mask face. The metal pins in the side of the helmet (under the ears) go all the way through. You will know you've lined these up correctly as the pin will poke through at right angles to the hole in the lug. When the helmet is on and locked, pressing the pin should push against the clip thus allowing the helmet to open - neat eh!.

f) Screw the metal latches you bought to a couple of strips

g)...and then glue these with 2-part epoxy to each side of the helmet back such that they line up with the lugs you added in the helmet face. Make sure the movable part of the metal latch so the pin will allow the helmet to open!

h) That's about it - just make sure that before you put it on the side pins do actually release the spring clips - otherwise you could be up for an embarrassing trip to the neighbours to see if they've got a tin opener!

When you've finished you should have something that only an expert could tell apart from anoriginal like this one above.

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